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Details on what I have sitting on my shelf. Descriptions of what's in each vehicle, action photos of them, and of course, a movie of each of them doing what they do best. |
Pictures
Clodbuster in the graveyard
Inside Clodbuster: a picture of the inside of the truck.
Purchased May 1989
This double motor monster truck is very fun to drive. It has 4 wheel drive and I added independent 4 wheel steering (the front wheels can turn independently from the back). Wheelies are easy and a wheelie bar lets you hold the wheelie forever. Its not as fast as race trucks, but has loads of power. Good for running over other cars.
Additions: Full ball-bearings; ESP wheelie bar; custom 1/2" PVC pipe roll bar; custom aluminum chassis braces and front skid plate; home-made cooling fan for the speed control; Parma "Grave Digger" body.
RECENTLY ACQUIRED (Dec 1996): Sassy Chassis aluminum chassis replacement.
Electronics: Futaba Attack 4 stick radio (needed at least a 3 channel radio to make independent 4WS); 2 Futaba S-148 servos for steering; Novak 610-R electronic speed control; Trinity 1400mAh Ex-tech 7 cell battery pack; Deans 4 pin connectors for motor and battery; 2 Trinity Speedworks Sapphire motors (17 turn single).Movies
Clod does the IMPOSSIBLE!!
(mpg, 504K) or (mov, 1410K, with music and sound!)
Pictures
RC 10T:inside the truck, and a profile shot
Flying over the hill
Too Close for Comfort Clip from the movie below
Larger picture of the one on the right -->
Purchased Feb 1995
If you like stadium trucks, then this truck, or the newer RC10T2 in my opinion is definitely the best one to buy. The speed and handling is impressive but what surprises me the most is the durability of this guy. Its gone over 7 - 8 foot dirt mound jumps at a construction site (see movie below). It's been put through some punishing abuse with head on collisions, flips, cartwheels, and belly flops with only minimal damages.
Additions: 4 Proline Dirt Hawg tires (excellent choice for driving on any surface because the treads last for a very long time, but traction is not as good as spikes on dirt or grass.); Technacraft titanium tie-rods; RPM bumper and rear carriers with extra large bearings; MIP CVD drive kit.
Electronics: Futaba FP-T2GS stick radio (old one but still good); Futaba S-148 servos for steering; Tekin TSC G-12 Goldfet II electronic speed control; Trinity 1400mAh Ex-tech 7 cell battery pack; Deans 4 pin connectors for motor and battery; Trinity 17 turn single Sapphire motor.
Movies
RC10T vs. The Caterpillar
(mpg, 1160K) or (mov, 2300K, with music and sound!)
Pictures
RC10GT: front view without body
RC10GT: side view with body
RC10GT: top view without body
Taking a small jump
Down the straightaway
In the mud- The outcome after it starts raining in the middle of dirt oval racing
Sporting my new body
Purchased December 1995
This is the newest addition to my RC collection. It was the first time I tried gas so it was a whole new experience to me. I've learned so much about gas since then and I absolutely love this truck. I bought it used from someone here in Hawaii for $325.
Additions as of 1998: OS CV .12 engine; stock Associated pipe; MIP 4 in 1 clutch; Lungsford titanium tie rods; Losi extra long ball-cups in front; Traxxas (rocket city type) ball ends. Futaba s9304 steering servo; Futaba s9403 throttle servo; MIP CVD drive kit; Hammad Ghuman aluminum brake adapter; return spring (very good to have); Proline Holeshot rear tires; Losi Directional front tires; RPM rear bulkhead; Lungsford Stiffie kit;
Equipment: JR 756 FM; Dynamite 5 cell 500mah receiver battery; Blue Thunder 20% fuel; OS glow plug.
Update: February 2001
Still actively racing after 5 years. Amazingly running the same truck. Most of the original components have been replaced, but never purchased a new kit. Original parts from time of purchase include front shock tower, titanium tierods, rear tranny brace, throttle and steering servo mounts, hinge pins, tranny bearings.
Additions as of 2001: OS CVR engine; stock Associated pipe; MIP 4 in 1 clutch; Lungsford titanium tie rods; Losi extra long ball-cups in front; Traxxas (rocket city type) ball ends; Airtronics 94257 ball bearing metal gear servo; JR NES-4131 throttle servo; MIP shiny CVD drive kit; Hammad Ghuman aluminum brake adapter; return spring (still good to have); Proline Holeshot rear tires; Proline Edge front tires; RPM bulkhead; Trinity chassis brace; custom riveted nose plate for more secure steering arm (for traditional black tub chassis);
Equipment: JR 756 FM; Dynamite 5 cell 500mah receiver battery; Blue Thunder 20% fuel; OS#8 glowplug.
Movies
This guy moves pretty fast
(mpg, 117K) or (mov, 585K, with sound!)
Pictures
Rocket Car: 3 different views
Closeups: the rocket mount
Closeups: electronics together in a tupperware
Closeups: front end
Originated sometime between 1988 - 1989
Whenever my friends and I prepare to run this car (this one is a group effort to run), the adrenaline is pumping and the question always is "What is it going to do tonight?" Every run has its own story in it. The first run ever had a A class rocket in it and we were anticipating maybe 50 yards but got only around 5 inches. Here's a log of rocket car runs that I remember:
Movies
Rocket Car in Action, and Rocket Car Crash and Burns
(mpg, 319K) or (mov, 2160K, with music and sound!)